What next?

December 1, 2008 7:57 pm

What happened in Bombay in the last few days was unthinkable. I asked myself the inevitable question “why?”. Honestly, I do not know the answer. For me to know the answer, I would have to be lot closer to mindset of the ones who embarked upon this unspeakable, deliberate act than I would care to be.

There is anger and sadness in my heart but I know that it will fade as it has on other occasions. I have no way of comparing my sense of loss to the one experienced by hundreds of people in Bombay and around the world. Therefore, I am turning my thoughts away to something else - what next?

Sure there will be more violence and accusations and strife and finger pointing. Its begun already and there will be a lot more of that - but it won’t be the answer to the problem. After all, what is the problem?

Some will say the problem is Pakistan. I am not going to debate whether Pakistan sponsors terrorism or not. That is irrelevant. What is relevant is that there is enough terrorism of the homegrown variety in India. Why do Indians kill other Indians? There are obvious fault lines in our own society. Rich vs poor. Muslim vs Hindu. North vs South. If an enemy takes advantage of our weakness, he is only being smart. We are being stupid if we dont tackle our own weakness.

Others will say the problem is the fact that we are “too” secular; that some Indian politicians go overboard supporting and protecting minorities. Fairness (or the percieved lack of it) may be a problem but only if you believe that justice and opportunities  are charity to be handed by these politicians to the poor (undeserving) citizens who elected them. Pointing fingers at the people who we put in power is the same as pointing fingers back at us.

Still others will find fault in some historic fact or the other - “the Brits divided us up” or “Aurangzeb erected the Babri masjid”. But the issues we face are ones which need to be handled in the present. The problem has to be here and now so we can tackle it. Unless someone has a time machine hidden in the attic.

Trite as it may sound, I think the real problem is the Indian citizen’s refusal to hold his leaders accountable for the lack of education, economic opportunity and access to law.

When you have work and a chance to better your lot in life, when you see options in how to live your life because of the skills you have acquired, when you can believe in yourself and your fellow citizens and not just a (malevolent) higher power, that’s when you stop and think before you pull the trigger. The ways to tackle these problems are not in the jingoistic vocabulary of most politicians because these phrases don’t get votes. Phrases like - better (or any!) schools, quick and easy access to legal redress, and removal of barriers to long term sustainable development. No its easier for them to get votes when you can point in the direction of the nearest person who doesn’t act, talk, dress, pray or think like you and blame him for every problem in your life. Its easier for us to hate than to be responsible.

So we get the government we deserve. And with it come days like November 26th 2008.

Till we decide that this is not what we want next.

Status update

August 25, 2008 6:30 am

Less than 6 weeks to go.

After a series of day-hikes over Hong Kong, I now feel a little more comfortable about the prospect of the EBC trek. I will be doing a long walk in cooler climes in Japan in mid-september with a Mt Fuji ascent thrown in.

Manav has been running long distances as usual.

Anand has been using what he has - a staircase - to practice. Despite niggling problems in his back, he seems confident of making it.

Most of the items on the packing list have been bought. I might have to buy new shoes since my old Timberlands seem to be self-destructing. Apart from being disappointed at the quality of this pair, I am also slightly hesitant about having to break new ones in at this stage.

Travel plans are all falling into place. Whle Cathay hasn’t confirmed my booking, they assure me I will get the ticket in the next week or so. The tour guide assures me that the reservations have been made. But he still hasn’t billed me which also leaves me with a modicum of doubt. Seems like the typical sub-continental propensity to leave everything to the gods and the last minute. Anand managed to get flights on Nepal Airlines with great difficulty. Looks like there will be lots of people in Nepal…

Entertainment Weekly’s Top 100 movies of all time

June 21, 2008 10:51 am

A good list - though I may not necessarily agree with #3.

The New Classics: Movies | EW 1000: Movies | Movies | The EW 1000 | Entertainment Weekly

1. Pulp Fiction (1994)
2. The Lord of the Rings trilogy (2001-03)
3. Titanic (1997)
4. Blue Velvet (1986)
5. Toy Story (1995)
6. Saving Private Ryan (1998)
7. Hannah and Her Sisters (1986)
8. The Silence of the Lambs (1991)
9. Die Hard (1988)
10. Moulin Rouge (2001)
11. This Is Spinal Tap (1984)
12. The Matrix (1999)
13. GoodFellas (1990)
14. Crumb (1995)
15. Edward Scissorhands (1990)
16. Boogie Nights (1997)
17. Jerry Maguire (1996)
18. Do the Right Thing (1989)
19. Casino Royale (2006)
20. The Lion King (1994)
21. Schindler’s List (1993)
22. Rushmore (1998)
23. Memento (2001)
24. A Room With a View (1986)
25. Shrek (2001)
26. Hoop Dreams (1994)
27. Aliens (1986)
28. Wings of Desire (1988)
29. The Bourne Supremacy (2004)
30. When Harry Met Sally… (1989)
31. Brokeback Mountain (2005)
32. Fight Club (1999)
33. The Breakfast Club (1985)
34. Fargo (1996)
35. The Incredibles (2004)
36. Spider-Man 2 (2004)
37. Pretty Woman (1990)
38. Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind (2004)
39. The Sixth Sense (1999)
40. Speed (1994)
41. Dazed and Confused (1993)
42. Clueless (1995)
43. Gladiator (2000)
44. The Player (1992)
45. Rain Man (1988)
46. Children of Men (2006)
47. Men in Black (1997)
48. Scarface (1983)
49. Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon (2000)
50. The Piano (1993)
51. There Will Be Blood (2007)
52. The Naked Gun: From the Files of Police Squad (1988)
53. The Truman Show (1998)
54. Fatal Attraction (1987)
55. Risky Business (1983)
56. The Lives of Others (2006)
57. There’s Something About Mary (1998)
58. Ghostbusters (1984)
59. L.A. Confidential (1997)
60. Scream (1996)
61. Beverly Hills Cop (1984)
62. sex, lies and videotape (1989)
63. Big (1988)
64. No Country For Old Men (2007)
65. Dirty Dancing (1987)
66. Natural Born Killers (1994)
67. Donnie Brasco (1997)
68. Witness (1985)
69. All About My Mother (1999)
70. Broadcast News (1987)
71. Unforgiven (1992)
72. Thelma & Louise (1991)
73. Office Space (1999)
74. Drugstore Cowboy (1989)
75. Out of Africa (1985)
76. The Departed (2006)
77. Sid and Nancy (1986)
78. Terminator 2: Judgment Day (1991)
79. Waiting for Guffman (1996)
80. Michael Clayton (2007)
81. Moonstruck (1987)
82. Lost in Translation (2003)
83. Evil Dead 2: Dead by Dawn (1987)
84. Sideways (2004)
85. The 40 Year-Old Virgin (2005)
86. Y Tu Mamá También (2002)
87. Swingers (1996)
88. Austin Powers: International Man of Mystery (1997)
89. Breaking the Waves (1996)
90. Napoleon Dynamite (2004)
91. Back to the Future (1985)
92. Menace II Society (1993)
93. Ed Wood (1994)
94. Full Metal Jacket (1987)
95. In the Mood for Love (2001)
96. Far From Heaven (2002)
97. Glory (1989)
98. The Talented Mr. Ripley (1999)
99. The Blair Witch Project (1999)
100. South Park: Bigger Longer & Uncut (1999)

EBC packing list

June 14, 2008 2:59 pm

I have built this list based on recommendations from the guide and other experienced hikers:

  1. 1 pair light-weight walking boots. If new, they should be broken in to avoid blisters. Spare laces required.
  2. 1 or 2 walking sticks
  3. 1 pair of track shoes to wear in the camp or guesthouse at night, or when boots are wet.
  4. 1 warm jacket. Medium weight fiber or down should be adequate.
  5. 1 Rain proof jacket - can be the same as above but a separate light-weight jacket is better
  6. 1 Woolen shirt or thick sweater
  7. 1 pair of light-weight and wind/water proof trousers
  8. 1 pair thermal underwear
  9. 1 track suit or similar
  10. Long shirts, T-Shirts, Light weight long sleeve shirts
  11. 1 Woolen hat, sun hat or cap
  12. 1 Pair of gloves
  13. A few pairs of thin nylon and thick woolen socks
  14. A pack of foot powder or baby powder
  15. A few hankies or bandanas
  16. 1 large knapsack
  17. A bag with personal medical supplies*
  18. Small Rucksack (max 10kg) to carry personal items
  19. 1 Towel and other toiletry items
  20. 3X1 liter water bottles
  21. Snow/sun-glasses
  22. Umbrella and rubber bands
  23. Headlamp
  24. Batteries
  25. Sleeping bag

Optional:

  1. Radios
  2. GPS
  3. Camera

EBC schedule

2:41 pm

The dates have now been finalised. This is what the schedule will look like:

2nd October : Delhi-Kathmandu

3rd October: Kathmandu (1355m)
Rest day for getting permits and any remaining equipment as well as sorting out timezone issues.

4th October: CHUMOA (2743m)
The flight from Kathmandu to Lukla has to be one of the most spectacular in the world. Twin Otter fly this route contrasting country with the snowline of the Himalayan range to the north and rugged foothills of Nepal immediately below and stretching away to the south. The landing at Lukla air strip (2800m) adds considerably to the general excitment and expectation. After a sort out and a cup of tea the trail leads north west and descends to the river at Phakding (2652 m). Spend the night at this nice village along the Dudh Kosi river.

5th October: NAMCHE BAZAR (3445 m)
Follow the Bhote Kosi through forest and pasture land. Along a valley dotted with small Sherpa settlements. Cross the Bhote Kosi and climb steeply along Switch backing trail to large Sherpa village. Views of Everest (8848 m) and Lotse (8511 m) come into sight. This prosperous town is the largest in Khumbu. A traditional trading center, the Bazaar is held every Saturday. The wares on display include grains and vegetables tennis shoes and trinkers as well as hand woven aprons and Tibetan boots. Thamserku (6648 m) and Kwangde Ri (6224 m) loom to the east and west, and the sacred mountain Khumbila (5705 m) dominates the skyline to the north behind the village.

6th October: NAMCHE BAZAR
Rest day. On may also pay a visit to the National Park centre or pay further visits to the centre of Namche to look around the bazaar.

7th October: KHUMJUNG (3791 m)
We take this day easy, with a slow and gradual walk through the Syangboche airstrip, visiting the famous Everest View hotel to the scenic village of Kunde first. This is where Sir Edmund Hillary established the first Sherpa school and hospital. Volunteers from all over the world come here to teach and assist in health education. Stay the night at Khumjung, one of the most beautiful in Khumbu. Its symmetrically laid out stone houses house the families of many of our Sherpas. Visit the Khumjung monastery and the school of painting. The Sherpa may extend their hospitality and offer a tea time visit to one of these houses an experience. 3 hrs.

8th October: THYANGBOCHE (3863 m)
The trail descends from Khumjung with chortens framing a dramatic view of Ama Dablam (6696 m) and Kangtaiga (6779 m) flanked by the towering heights of Sagarmatha (the Nepalese name for-Everest), Lhotse and Nuptse. Descend through moss covered rhododendron forest, watching for blood pleasant and the Impayan pheasant in the undergrowth. Cross the Dudh Kosi at Phungithanga and climb through rhododendron forest to the saddle at the top of the hill. Here lies, Thyangboche the main monastery of the Khumbu area.

The views from here are unforgettable. Thyangboche lies at the nase of Kangtaiga and the spur of this ridge offers panoramic views of the pain peaks of Khumbu including Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Tawoche and Khumbila. Note : Thyanboche Monastery was burnt down in January 1989. It was reconstructed in April 1990.

9th October: DINGBOCHE (4412 m)
Descend from Thyangboche and again cross the Imja Khola, then side hill gradually to Pangboche. An interesting gompa site above the main village. The trekker is in the midst of the Himalayas here, with spectacular views all around. For acclimatisation there is a need to spend two nights around the 4268 m level and Dingboche lying in a sheltered spot above the Imja Khola is generally more attractive than Pheriche. It is however of note that the Himalayan Rescue Association have their aid post at Pheriche. Five hours.

10th October: DINGBOCHE
A day walk up to Ckukung is highly recommended. The route gradually ascends to the few scattered stone huts that make up the settlements to the south are every changing views of Ama Dablam and to the north the massive walls of the Nuptse ridge and the south face of Lhotse. Five hours.

11th October: LOBUJE (4931 m)
The route past Pheriche stants over a ridge and stays above the village. It joins the trail below Thugla. Beautiful views of Cholatse (6442 m) across the valley. After another steep ascent the trail climbs up and over the terminal moraine of Khumbu Glacier. Up and along the west lateral moraine of glacier the trail is rough in parts. Start and rugged beauty creates almost a moonscape. Campsite at Lobuje a windswept collection of huts tucked in a narrow meadow between the glacier and the Lobuche Peak (6156 m). Tawache and Nuptse are particularly spectacular from Lobuche, towering almost 2 kms directly overhead. Five hours.

12th October: GORAKSHEP (5160 m)
Early start essential. Travel along the Khumbu Glacier through jumbled moraine and shattered rock. Climb Kala Pattar (5545 m) for views of the gaints of the east, Pumori (7145 m), Everest, the Tibetan peak Changtse (7550 m), Nuptse, Lhotse and countless other needles and snow fluted ridges.

13th October: PHERICHE (4240m)
A trip to the actual Base Camp of Everest might be possible depending on conditions and whether or not an expedition is present or not. If no expedition is present at the Base Camp a route is a most impossible to find. Back track along the same route and then descend gradually until one reaches the village of Pheriche. Total including BC visit approx 8 hours.

14th October: PHORSTE (3847 m)
Continue descending. Pass through Pangboche. Stay high on the west bank of the river to the Sherpa village of Phortse, which lies on the lower southern flank of Tawache, directly across the valley from Thyangboche. Approx 4 hours.

15th October: KHUNDE KHUMJUNG
Descend through forest to the Dudh Kosi. A very pretty crossing point leads to a steady climb to a chorten offering wonderful views back across the valley to Phortse, Thyangboche and their surrounding mountains. A traverse leads to a classic descent down a giant rock pathway hewn out of the mountainside. A plod up the valley leads back to the twin villages. Time 5 hours.

16th October: KONJO/JORSALE (2850m)
The route home leads back through Namche and off down the hill. There are some nice campsites close to the National Park boundary. Five hours.

17th October: LUKLA (2804 m)
From here the walk to Lukla takes about five hours of which the last 1.30 hr ae rather surprisingly hard work. We have a nice house as a base at Lukla with a good campsite above the airstrip.

18th October: Lukla-Kathmandu
One of the most exciting take-offs in the world wings the Twin Otter high above the Dudh Kosi for the 45 minutes flight back to Kathmandu.
Depending on weather conditions, fly back to Delhi the same day.

EBC - links

May 28, 2008 11:53 am

Everest Base Camp

May 27, 2008 9:45 pm

Manav, Anand and I are planning to make the trek from Lukla to the Everest Base Camp in October of this year.

Manav is probably the fittest of us all. He has been running marathons.

Anand and I have to get fitter… and fast.

I’ll keep posting updates on these pages of how we fare. Wish us luck!

It gets better

January 5, 2008 5:44 am

After realising that I had no hope of taking on facebook, flickr and the like with my feeble efforts at setting this site up, I have decided to join them.

Now the photos are being hosted on facebook and routed to this site via the Fotobook plug-in.

Also the blog is being simultaneoudly published on fb and here.

New here?

November 24, 2007 8:20 am

Click here for a quick guide to this website.

Remember you need to register and login to post comments on these pages.

Use the form at the bottom of this page if you need to contact us.

Back in black

7:19 am

The site is up and running again with a completely revised infrastructure.

Geek-out moment - This site and the embedded gallery now use the vSlider3 theme for Wordpress linked to Gallery2 via WPG2. My better photos are hosted using a Lightroom Gallery. Phew.

Its been a tough year at work but we seem to have found some time to travel and party. Those pictures and maybe some travelogues should be hitting these pages soon…